How to make your own bench hooks and push sticks
A bench hook gives small timber a firm stop while you plane, chisel or mark it. It sits across the front of a bench, and its rebated opening holds the workpiece instead of letting it wander toward the cutting edge. A version made for your bench is more reliable than an improvised block. Learn more about Tobaccopipecollectors.com.
A push stick solves a different problem: it keeps fingers out of a spinning router bit while feeding narrow stock across the baseplate. The tools complement rather than replace each other. Both need sound hardwood, careful proportioning and checks before use. Learn more about Contact.
Plan the bench hook for the job
A bench hook works best when dedicated to one common operation, such as planing dowels, guiding small strips or holding offcuts for chiselling. Measure the bench thickness, vice jaw opening and stock used most. A useful starting point is a board 100 mm wide and 250 mm long, with a 30–35 mm deep bridge over the front edge. Learn more about Tips.
Dense Australian timbers such as spotted gum from Queensland, jarrah from Western Australia and Tasmanian oak resist bruising and splitting. Buy short lengths from timber merchants rather than full boards. Boxed material and fixings sold across Australia are usually metric, although imported fittings can differ, so check every measurement before cutting. Learn more about Yeniokul.net.
Sketch the notch before shaping it, allowing enough depth for the workpiece without weakening the bridge. Compact wooden objects and traditional accessories can offer useful design references; the pipe collectors forum offers a specialist view of how collectors value condition and construction details. Learn more about Choosing Between Oil Based And Water Based Dyes For Hardwood 396239.
Cut a stable, accurate notch
Mark the opening with a sharp knife or gauge, then saw away waste with a bandsaw or mitre saw. Cut a shallow relief beneath the two fingers so the hook sits flat on the bench, with the fingers straddling its front edge. Support the work and unplug the saw before changing blades or adjusting anything.
Trim the notch in small passes, then pare its inner shoulders with a chisel until stock seats without rocking. For a two-piece hook, screw or dowel the bridge to the base, reinforcing glued joints with small blocks. Soften every edge and round contact points so the tool cannot chip delicate timber.
Keep all fasteners below the stock path, and check that no screw head projects into the opening. Test the fit with scrap before applying finish. Practical workshop tips on joinery and workholding can help when adapting an unusual bench shape.
Build a push stick that keeps hands clear
Make the push stick from straight-grained hardwood about 300 mm long, 45–60 mm wide and 18–25 mm thick. The front tip bears against the workpiece, while the underside runs flat on the router base; the handle must keep both hands well behind the machine. For repeated jobs, a sliding tongue-and-groove adjustment helps, but every moving part must lock before the router starts. A side-by-side comparison shows where each tool belongs:
| Feature | Bench hook | Push stick |
|---|---|---|
| Primary job | Holds small stock for hand-tool work | Guides narrow stock past a router bit |
| Workholding | Rebated opening and bench contact | Router base and secure bearing face |
| Material | Dense hardwood | Straight-grained solid hardwood |
| Main control | Prevents sideways movement | Keeps hands clear of the bit |
| Adjustment | Fixed or repositioned for the bench | Adjustable for stock width and bit overrun |
During routing, keep the stick’s bearing surface flat against the router base and let the workpiece travel steadily against the tool. Check the manufacturer’s overrun figures for your bit and make the throat deep enough for the largest cutter you use. Never reach across the baseplate, remove the stick while the machine runs or rely on the stick alone to prevent the stock from tipping.
If the timber is already stained, the hardwood dye guide explains how oil- and water-based colours behave differently, including pigment transfer to hands and a workpiece.
Finish, test and maintain the tools
Sand the finished surfaces progressively, ending with fine grit around the notch and handle, then apply a thin coat of hard wax oil or cabinetmaker’s wax. Both are readily available from Australian timber and finishing suppliers. Allow the coating to cure, especially during Brisbane’s humid seasons, because a tacky surface collects dust and transfers to stock.
Before routing, test the push stick on scrap at the lowest practical speed with the bit installed but the router off. Fit the correct guard and collet, check the baseplate, and use an RCD-protected lead or socket as with any workshop machine. Support the workpiece beyond the baseplate and stop if the stock grabs.
Over time, inspect the hook for loose joints, splits and raised grain, and renew its wax after handling. For a refresher on grain direction, tool handling or stock preparation, DIY learning resources provide useful background before the next build.
Share the build with other makers
Build records are more useful when they include bench thickness, notch size and router model. A photograph of the setup also shows where a maker changed dimensions rather than forcing a universal pattern. Australian woodworking shows and community classes in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane and Adelaide provide useful settings for comparing these details with experienced makers.
A useful jig, method or safety improvement can be shared with Cantolirico’s community by contacting the editors and including measurements with photographs. Clear dimensions help others reproduce the tool without inheriting avoidable mistakes.